In our curriculum there are some hoops that need to be jumped through before this point is arrived at. In order to be taught how to aim, students need to be able to shoot good groups at short distance. The argument for doing this in this manner: beginners need to focus on their form and execution and aiming puts them into their heads focussing on the target and they lose focus on their bodies. So, good group at least indicates they have a fairly good full draw position and they can get off the string well enough repeatedly.
Then they are taught to aim “off the point.” Point of aim (POA) technique is a good first technique to teach because nothing new has to be added to the bow to use it.
We also want a beginner to have his own bow, arrows, and sight before we go through this process, but some differ. It is just our experience that if you use program sights, there is just too much fidddling around to get them right and then the class is over and another student needs to fiddle too much to get it working, etc.
If your student is good to go, then here is our process.
Obviously the sight has to be attached to the bow. Once that is done, move the sight aperture in or out until it is directly above the arrow shaft when the bow is vertical (this is a good estimate of a starting windage position for the aperture). Vertically, a good estimate of how how high above the arrow the aperture needs to be is the distance between the students aiming eye and the corner of his mouth. You can even hold your thumb and finger up to the archer’s face to take off this estimate (avoid poking them in the eye, please).
Now you are ready to start.
The Training Process
Start with the student shoot at a reasonable distance until they are warm. This is done by the student shooting off of the point. If they find the sight too distracting, take it off. You want them shooting good groups I the center of the target off the point. Then ask them while they are shooting if they can see the aperture against the background. If they can, ask them where it is. Have them use the clock system with the rings on the target to describe where it is.
If the aperture isn’t on the target center, adjust it. Let’s say your student says that the aperture is at 2 o’clock in the red, which means it is both high and right of target center, so move it down and to the left.
Have them continue to shoot off the point and spotting where the aperture is and adjusting it until it is at target center. Have them shoot a couple more shots off of the point and then ask them if they could shoot a shot lining up the now centered-up aperture on target center. (I have never had a student say “no.”) Then let them shoot this way.
It is important to let them shoot with the sight this way for the rest of a class. Don’t move on to something else.
This whole process can be done in about five minutes if everything goes as planned.
The process builds a sense of success because the arrows are always grouping and always cenetered on the target. Just slapping a sight on and showing them how to aim with it results in off center groups which feel unsuccessful. Then most instructors begin teaching the student how to sight in their sight which we believe is too much information too fast and, therefore, confusing, resulting in mistaken repositioning of the aperture, resulting in more off centered arrows.
Leave “sighting in” for other distances for a later date.
Before attaching the sight to the bow, we recommend that you lower all of the bottom pins down as far as they will go. This effectively turns the sight into a “one pin sight.” Then the procedure is much the same as for the target sight.
As with all of our recommended procedures, there are alternative ways to doing things. If you are perfectly happy with a method you use, then use it. Our procedures are based on our teaching philosphies, such as “complex things are best learned a piece at a time” which is the basis for the procedures offered here.
We usually start out the sighting in procedure by asking them to warm up at their most comfortable distance and when that is done, we ask them to step back five more yards from the target (or move the target five yards farther away). We ask them then to shoot still by lining up the aperture with the target center. Of course, their arrows will hit low. Ask them how to move their aperture to get back at target center. Whatever they answer (even if it is wrong), help them move the aperture and then test their “hypothesis” as to how they should have moved their aperture. If they guessed wrong, their arrows will be even lower, so they will have to reverse course and move the aperture the other way. Have them continue adjusting until they are back at target center.
You can then move them back five more yards and have them repeat the process. Always start with the old sight setting, which should cause them to shoot low, and then adjust the aperture.
Of course, with low drawing bows, they may run out of room on the sight to make adjustments and there are other complications, we just won’t go into those now.
If they are using a pin sight, instead of moving the aperture, the next pin in the “stack” is raised up to sit somewhere below the first pin, then the procedure is the same. A new pin is used for each new distance. (You may want to choose the distances to give them a nice range for their shortest and longest pins, or not. It is hard to anticipate what those will be in advance.)
But Wait, There’s More!
When they are done with the lesson, ask them if they could set their sight back to any of the other distances. If they haven’t written the other ones down (or marked them on a “sight tape” on their sight) the answer is probably “no.” This is a good time to make the point about writing such things down. We often pass out small spiral bound notebooks (we got a pile of these very cheaply on eBay) as an incentive to write things (like sight distances and their corresponding sight tape scale readings) down. You have already clearly made the point that archers can’t keep everything in their heads.